Rivershack Tavern

We don't go to New Orleans to drink beer. We go for the great music and the great food, so, when selecting our favorite bar, we knew it would have to offer both. Carrollton Station has excellent live music and a fine selection of craft products on draught, but the "Home of the Tacky Ashtray" has the edge.

The Rivershack sits in a century-old building, just outside the city in Jefferson, and looks out on a levee. It used to be W. Teoulet's Grocery and Bar, and when the tavern owners stripped the old asbestos shingles off the front of the building, they found it covered with perfectly preserved hand-painted advertisements from the 1940s. Drive up at night, when the green building shines, an old Jax sign glows and patrons quaff a few on the wide front steps, and you'll think you've never seen a place so welcoming.

It's nice to sit outside on a warm, mosquito-free night at a communal picnic table or on one of the barrels with metal footrests and cup holders, but make sure you go inside as well. You don't want to miss those tacky ashtrays, which sit on the bar and keep old beer signs company on the walls. Bring one in and trade it for a beer -- how much you get depends on the tackiness of the ashtray, and ones with naked women are at a premium.

The stools at the L-shaped bar have carved legs that look to be human, showing a golfer, a shrimper, a cowboy, a woman in high heels and others from below the knees. A pool table that sees plenty of action dominates the roadhouse-like interior.

The staff was very friendly, and the food was excellent. Three of us quickly devoured a po-boy stuffed with fresh fried oysters and shrimp ($7.50), an alligator bayou pizza on French bread ($6) and a Mississippi meatball sandwich ($5). Order from a waitress if one's around, otherwise, walk into the kitchen to place your order.

Oh, and the Rivershack has 20 beers on tap, including Dixie Blackened Voodoo, Anchor Steam and several Abita products.

May 1995